This will be the first Spring that we will have a backyard, but we have no idea what special treatments (if any) our lawn needs in the Spring.
Also, if it does need a special treatment, can you do it yourself or do you have to hire a company to do it?
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If your lawn looked good in the fall, then it needs no special care in spring. Go to your local garden center (not a box store – support the little guys) and ask for a bag of a lawn fertilizer. Nothing special. Most local garden centers will rent you a walk-behind spreader and talk you through how to apply it. Rely on them – they know what you will need for your area. Talk to them about grubs, crabgrass and any other issue they feel you need to know in your area.
Often, you will see season specific lawn fertilizer such as Scotts four-step program. Honestly? Unless you are trying to turn your lawn into a golf course or your lawn has major issues, you don’t need to spend the money buying bags of spring, summer, fall and winter fertilizer.
First of all, rake the backyard with a grass rake to get up most of the dead grass, foliage and the small branches.Then you can overseed with the same strain of grass as the back, fertilize as recommended by the maker of the fertilizer you are using and water frequently for the first couple of days. This will set the seed, get some fertilizer into the ground to promote spring growth. You can do it yourself or have a service do it which could be costly.
Click this link, this is the one we use. Be sure to give them your email at the bottom of the screen so they can send you reminders as to what needs to be done in your area:
all treatment should have been done last year such as arriating ,top dressing etc, may be a spot weed killer or re-seeding could be done soon ,if necesary.of course you do it yourself ,cost a fortune to get someone .
If you were cleaned up last Fall, you got most of it done. Just a couple of tips. If you live in an area that has a lot of snow and it stayed on the ground, look for matted area of grass that could be black, gray, or even pink. That’s snow mold. Make sure you rake the grass so that the blades stand up better and the wind will dry up the mold. Once you do the first couple of cuts, you shouldn’t have any problems.
If you have any significant bare spots, now would be the time to re seed them. This is epecially true if you have them underneath mature trees. You have to get the grass established before the trees leaf out and you have a substantial decrease in light.
When it comes to fertilization, there are a couple of decisions you are going to have to make. If you are going to do an overall reseeding, you will not be able to use any herbicide until the new seed is ready for cutting. If you fertilize, you are best to use a 10-10-10 or a 12-12-12. if you use a fertilizer with a high first number, you can kill the new grass blades. If you use a regular fertilizer, stay away from the newly seeded areas. Most herbicides, especially pre emergent crabicide, sets up a barrier that prevents any grass from germinating. Crabgrass seeds in the Spring and begins to growth in June. You can spray mature crabgrass with a liquid chemical but it turns the grass purple and, when you pull it out, you will have a large bare spot. Remember the best way to solve the weed problem is to have a full and healthy lawn.
You certainly can do this yourself. If you have the time, it will cost a lot less money and, if you follow directions, you will get just as good results.